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In September of dordle last year, my wife Johanna, our two boys, and I indulged in the place's majestic ambience by spending a few days there in the golden, late-summer light. Our sons too experienced Passalacqua's remarkable effects. Aubrey, age 2, often enjoys screaming and hurling objects. But after some playful swimming in the hotel's lovely pool, he, too, drifted about for long periods in his water wings, simply staring at the mountains. Never before has he been so relaxed.